Today is my last day on the horticulture project. It’s time to come to a close on my work on the mparachichi (avocado), nyanya (tomato), and nanasi (pineapple). We've had a good run.
We will hear soon enough if we win the USAID contract (fingers crossed!) – and if so, the hard work of implementation will launch in October. October will be just before tomato and pineapple harvest, so a huge opportunity exists for TNS to engage effectively with farmers during one their riskiest times of year.
To anyone who read my blog occasionally, thank you. I have enjoyed sharing my thoughts in this way – my only goal was to avoid a daily diary and instead offer color commentary.
My parents arrive tonight and we depart for the Northern Circuit of game parks in the morning before spending a few days on Zanzibar. I am excited to travel to new parts of Tanzania with them and I have no doubt this will be a welcomed break from the mean streets of Lagos.
I will not miss:
- The sound of someone sweeping dirt
- Power outages / water outages / general outages
- The smell of burning trash when its plastic
- How 60% of my diet is typically carbohydrates
- Negotiating with taxi drivers when trying to go home – then realizing you are arguing over $1-2 – well, you are actually arguing over principle
I will miss:
- The satisfaction and excitement that occurs when the power or water comes back on, even though you had nothing to do with fixing the problem
- The smell of burning trash when its not nasty; oddly enough, its the aroma of developing countries :)
- Bongoflava tunes
- 80s aerobics classes and general jazzercise at the gym
- Road tunes solo singing by Deo
- HUGE avocados for $0.40
- Untouched Tanzanian countryside
- The sight of a daladala zooming by overloaded with people
In an understatement, I’ve been lucky and I have enjoyed an incredible summer.
I will return to Tanzania in some way in the future – whether or not I make my fortunes in avocado export or help to build the private sector in another way, this is an incredible place. I hope Tanzania continues to stay under the radar but also fights to become less dependent on foreign aid and more reliant upon itself.
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Dar Goat Races 2009: Meeting and Exceeding Expectations
It’s not often you can hold the bar high in Dar. However, today we did and the goats valiantly jumped over.
Most races were really won in the final "sprinting" stretch of the track
At the start / finish line -- almost like standing on Boylston at Fairfield for the Boston marathon
The Dar Goat Races attracted the most mzungus I’ve seen since I left Boston. And that’s saying something. It was shocking. It was also surprising how ‘normal’ this event felt; you entered to purchase tickets, you got a wrist-band, there were concessions surrounding a large race track. It made sense. That should not go under-appreciated.
Controlling race corruption and betting collusion :)
Each race is sponsored by a major company – and each goat is sponsored by a team of local residents. Costumes were encouraged. Goat names were required for goat registration. As a result, the public could bet a minimum 2,000 TSH (about USD $1.30) per race to cheer on your winner with hopes to share in the reward prizes.
Fashion inspired by the Derby, with African flair
In my first bet, I placed money on Lamb-sagne. He was the underdog, but did not pull through. The next race? O-baaaaa-ma. Apparently the goat named “Ndio, tunaweza” (Kiswahili: "Yes, we can!") raced before we arrived.
The Obama Kanga fabric transformed well to Race attire
Keeping it classy with Jenna and CJ between races
The "Goat-busters" earned points for creativity and for staying in costume despite the heat!
Cashing in for charity!
The inter-race rivalry among the goats was strongly felt even from the sidelines
While none of the goats I picked to win were victorious (who would have thought Hannah Goat-annah would be the dark horse victor in race 3?), this event made the day. While the Kentucky Derby is quite an affair, the Dar Goat Races are a close second!
Most races were really won in the final "sprinting" stretch of the track
At the start / finish line -- almost like standing on Boylston at Fairfield for the Boston marathon
The Dar Goat Races attracted the most mzungus I’ve seen since I left Boston. And that’s saying something. It was shocking. It was also surprising how ‘normal’ this event felt; you entered to purchase tickets, you got a wrist-band, there were concessions surrounding a large race track. It made sense. That should not go under-appreciated.
Controlling race corruption and betting collusion :)
Each race is sponsored by a major company – and each goat is sponsored by a team of local residents. Costumes were encouraged. Goat names were required for goat registration. As a result, the public could bet a minimum 2,000 TSH (about USD $1.30) per race to cheer on your winner with hopes to share in the reward prizes.
Fashion inspired by the Derby, with African flair
In my first bet, I placed money on Lamb-sagne. He was the underdog, but did not pull through. The next race? O-baaaaa-ma. Apparently the goat named “Ndio, tunaweza” (Kiswahili: "Yes, we can!") raced before we arrived.
The Obama Kanga fabric transformed well to Race attire
Keeping it classy with Jenna and CJ between races
The "Goat-busters" earned points for creativity and for staying in costume despite the heat!
Cashing in for charity!
The inter-race rivalry among the goats was strongly felt even from the sidelines
While none of the goats I picked to win were victorious (who would have thought Hannah Goat-annah would be the dark horse victor in race 3?), this event made the day. While the Kentucky Derby is quite an affair, the Dar Goat Races are a close second!
It’s a Good Thing We Are Not Too Close to the Game Park
Before leaving Morogoro, I spent the day finalizing some vegetable cost of production data with some farmers in the mountain-top village of Mgeta. I was again caught off-guard with colder temperatures upon arriving to speak with district officials. However, the real surprise occurred on the return down the mountain.
As we came down a steeper, unpaved stretch, the car stopped. Engine died. Deo turned the key and it would start, but not kick over. Although he quickly identified this as an electrical problem, there was no quick solution. This happened around 1:30PM.
With the car hood raised, blocking traffic along the narrow passageway, we attracted attention. As daladalas and open trucks passed by with Tanzanians barely holding on or packed in like sardines, each car would pause to check on the status of our mishap. Occasionally a small crowd of men would hop off, give the proverbial “stare” at the serpentine arrangement of wires and parts surrounding the engine, and wish us luck.
Around 3PM, I fell asleep in the front seat. I woke up around 5PM with no improvement in situation. As the sky started to signal the transition towards evening, our options started to narrow. With darkness falling before 6:30PM, I started to think we might want to get in the next daladala to return to town – or, even prepare to sleep in the car. At this point, I was also about to breach the 12 hour mark past breakfast, my only other meal of the day. Deo, the driver, and Mr. Kapera, the district extension officer who accompanied us on our trip, started to show signs of frustration.
However, at 6:10PM help arrived! Another TNS staff member and a fundi gari (car repair man) came by truck to assess the situation. As the fundi got to work, I learned more about the other TNS employee, my hero of-the-moment. As we spoke, he continued to cut and chew portions of a long piece of sugar cane. Tanzanian sugar cane is fibrous, has a stringy interior and you chew like gum. I had not yet tried it and decided to ease my hunger.
Apparently, my asking for some sugar cane is the equivalent of a girl asking for a wad of Copenhagen chewing tobacco to place inside her lip. The look of surprise and confusion faded to acquiescence and amusement as the small crowd and TNS staff watched as I tore off a portion to try.
In short, it’s not good.
At this point, darkness was falling. The spark plug had been identified as the main culprit of car failure, but we were not yet in the clear. At this point, I was still chewing my way through poor-tasting sugar cane when the TNS team member remarked, “Well, at least we are far enough away from the game parks, because its dinner time!”
Before long, the fuse was replaced and we resumed our slow crawl down the steep mountain. While being stranded on the road is usually frustrating, often creates the opportunity for adventure, and always happens when you do not expect it, it’s not often you might be confused as an unsuspecting appetizer or meal for game park animals!
As we came down a steeper, unpaved stretch, the car stopped. Engine died. Deo turned the key and it would start, but not kick over. Although he quickly identified this as an electrical problem, there was no quick solution. This happened around 1:30PM.
With the car hood raised, blocking traffic along the narrow passageway, we attracted attention. As daladalas and open trucks passed by with Tanzanians barely holding on or packed in like sardines, each car would pause to check on the status of our mishap. Occasionally a small crowd of men would hop off, give the proverbial “stare” at the serpentine arrangement of wires and parts surrounding the engine, and wish us luck.
Around 3PM, I fell asleep in the front seat. I woke up around 5PM with no improvement in situation. As the sky started to signal the transition towards evening, our options started to narrow. With darkness falling before 6:30PM, I started to think we might want to get in the next daladala to return to town – or, even prepare to sleep in the car. At this point, I was also about to breach the 12 hour mark past breakfast, my only other meal of the day. Deo, the driver, and Mr. Kapera, the district extension officer who accompanied us on our trip, started to show signs of frustration.
However, at 6:10PM help arrived! Another TNS staff member and a fundi gari (car repair man) came by truck to assess the situation. As the fundi got to work, I learned more about the other TNS employee, my hero of-the-moment. As we spoke, he continued to cut and chew portions of a long piece of sugar cane. Tanzanian sugar cane is fibrous, has a stringy interior and you chew like gum. I had not yet tried it and decided to ease my hunger.
Apparently, my asking for some sugar cane is the equivalent of a girl asking for a wad of Copenhagen chewing tobacco to place inside her lip. The look of surprise and confusion faded to acquiescence and amusement as the small crowd and TNS staff watched as I tore off a portion to try.
In short, it’s not good.
At this point, darkness was falling. The spark plug had been identified as the main culprit of car failure, but we were not yet in the clear. At this point, I was still chewing my way through poor-tasting sugar cane when the TNS team member remarked, “Well, at least we are far enough away from the game parks, because its dinner time!”
Before long, the fuse was replaced and we resumed our slow crawl down the steep mountain. While being stranded on the road is usually frustrating, often creates the opportunity for adventure, and always happens when you do not expect it, it’s not often you might be confused as an unsuspecting appetizer or meal for game park animals!
Pineapple: A Fruit That Takes More Than It Gives
During the last stop on my grand jaunt, pineapple became the fruit of focus. Morogoro region is located at the foothills of the Uluguru Mountains. The elevated terrain creates a climate ideal for pineapple production – little to no irrigation or pesticides needed – but also results in precarious driving conditions along unpaved, bumpy dirt roads.
That said, as our 4x4 adroitly navigated the pathways up to villages in Matombo, Myuguni, and Kinole – the question remains: how do you transport anything without assuming 50% losses just due to road conditions alone?
First arriving to the village of Kiswira, I met with famers who shared this concern. Due to poor road conditions, they rely on buyers arriving to town with empty trucks. As a result, the price offered leaves little room for negotiation and famers often sell below value – and even below cost of production. However, little options for alternatives exist.
Go Longhorns!! (Amazing!)
First stop on the Kiswira Home & Garden Tour
I suspect she does well in price negotiations
After our meeting, the pineapple farmers walked with me to show me a nearby pineapple plot – and another where orange trees are integrated with pineapple. Pineapple requires space for its leaves to fan, but little else. In this region, pineapple can grow to decent size with little to no irrigation, fertilizer, or pesticides. However, unlike citrus trees, which require the same land mass – the pineapple produces a single, or at most, a few fruits. Price does not reward exclusivity in production volume. While the Matombo region is renowned for its “Matombo Sweet” orange variety – with buyers arriving from Kenya to truck back supply – the pineapple is the unfavored child of local production.
Pineapple Glamour Shot
While I learned much from speaking with farmers in the field and professors at Sokoinne University of Agriculture – the resounding message was clear: find us stronger connections to markets. This, of course, is easier said than done.
That said, as our 4x4 adroitly navigated the pathways up to villages in Matombo, Myuguni, and Kinole – the question remains: how do you transport anything without assuming 50% losses just due to road conditions alone?
First arriving to the village of Kiswira, I met with famers who shared this concern. Due to poor road conditions, they rely on buyers arriving to town with empty trucks. As a result, the price offered leaves little room for negotiation and famers often sell below value – and even below cost of production. However, little options for alternatives exist.
Go Longhorns!! (Amazing!)
First stop on the Kiswira Home & Garden Tour
I suspect she does well in price negotiations
After our meeting, the pineapple farmers walked with me to show me a nearby pineapple plot – and another where orange trees are integrated with pineapple. Pineapple requires space for its leaves to fan, but little else. In this region, pineapple can grow to decent size with little to no irrigation, fertilizer, or pesticides. However, unlike citrus trees, which require the same land mass – the pineapple produces a single, or at most, a few fruits. Price does not reward exclusivity in production volume. While the Matombo region is renowned for its “Matombo Sweet” orange variety – with buyers arriving from Kenya to truck back supply – the pineapple is the unfavored child of local production.
Pineapple Glamour Shot
While I learned much from speaking with farmers in the field and professors at Sokoinne University of Agriculture – the resounding message was clear: find us stronger connections to markets. This, of course, is easier said than done.
Sunday, August 9, 2009
The Nane Nane Spectacle: Kilimo Kwanza!
Nane Nane (Eight Eight) is a national showcase of agricultural wonderment. While a mainstay party in the capital of Dodoma and Morogoro region, another region is highlighted each year.
Mbeya certainly put on a show!
And people came in droves!
The Prime Minister was supposed to arrive at 9AM; he decided to enter at 11:30AM -- and after 50 minutes of introductions, thank-yous, singing, and general microphone chaos, he got started. He talked for an hour! I asked Deo what he was really saying...after listening particularly intently for a few more minutes, Deo said "He is praising agriculture and wants to do more for Tanzanian farmers." Simple enough, not sure that needed an hour, but it was the honor of the day for many.
Nice job, Pepsi, with the ad space!
However, after the politician glad-handing was over, the district officials returned to their individual buildings where local staff displayed grains, vegetables, crafts, etc. made in their district.
A special area for mbogas na matundas (vegetables and fruits), featuring the crowd favorite: mparachichi - the avocado!
I had a chance to speak with district officials that would have otherwise not been possible -- or required more road miles for scant information -- this was a very efficient way to collect information! The small city of Mbeya was overwhelmed with people traveling far on the daladalas; navigating our exit by car was worse than leaving the Houston rodeo, but it was a very good day to celebrate Tanzania!
Mbeya certainly put on a show!
And people came in droves!
The Prime Minister was supposed to arrive at 9AM; he decided to enter at 11:30AM -- and after 50 minutes of introductions, thank-yous, singing, and general microphone chaos, he got started. He talked for an hour! I asked Deo what he was really saying...after listening particularly intently for a few more minutes, Deo said "He is praising agriculture and wants to do more for Tanzanian farmers." Simple enough, not sure that needed an hour, but it was the honor of the day for many.
Nice job, Pepsi, with the ad space!
However, after the politician glad-handing was over, the district officials returned to their individual buildings where local staff displayed grains, vegetables, crafts, etc. made in their district.
A special area for mbogas na matundas (vegetables and fruits), featuring the crowd favorite: mparachichi - the avocado!
I had a chance to speak with district officials that would have otherwise not been possible -- or required more road miles for scant information -- this was a very efficient way to collect information! The small city of Mbeya was overwhelmed with people traveling far on the daladalas; navigating our exit by car was worse than leaving the Houston rodeo, but it was a very good day to celebrate Tanzania!
Why I Might Launch an Avocado Farm, and Perhaps You Should Too
I have a new hero. He’s from Zimbabwe – based on his timing in Tanzania, the unsaid story is that he likely lost his coffee farm due to the Zimbabwe political shenanigans. He’s now betting his new farm – literally – on my favorite green fruit. Captain Avocado has three young children, a friendly wife, a comfortable home on sprawling land, one huge dog, one small dog, and a donkey. He’s living the dream.
We headed out south to Rungwe, where he currently farms 80 h.a. His main crop is Hass avocado – and his plan is to grow his own and manage a network of smallholder farmers also growing Hass for export to Europe.
Avocados (and more) for as far as the eye can see in Tukuyu, TZ
Seedlings of future greatness
3 month old plant...it takes 2 years of growing to really get going
It sounds ridiculous until he explains the financial margins – severely in his favor.
It sounds ridiculous until he explains that smallholder farmers can earn more from avocado than possibly on any other crop in the area (tea, coffee).
It sounds ridiculous until you learn how low-maintenance the avocado is to grow.
It sounds ridiculous until you realize he has it all figured out.
Who knew the avocado market offered so much global drama? Apparently the Peruvians and South Africans have much of the export market locked up. Even the Spaniards currently fill a gap when Peru and RSA don’t have harvest – but Tanzania can really make its mark during a window of time where the profits favor both the Captain and the smallholder farmers who sell him their volumes. It’s a win-win.
A local farmer standing next to "green gold"
Global demand for “avos” (this is what the Zimbabwean calls his pet fruit, by the end of the day, so did I) is on the rise. Consumption has nearly tripled in three years in the US alone. I attribute this marked increase – without any research or confirmation – to a two-prong combination:
(1) the growing demand for the Wrights of Texas mild green salsa (avo is a key ingredient, I believe; www.wrightsoftexas.com – now available at Whole Foods across Texas) and
(2) our avo-loving, southern NAFTA neighbors who continue to enter the US at rapid rates and who are confirming the vast culinary differences between Tex-Mex fare and actual Mexican food. Thankfully, both Tex-Mex and Mexican foods hold the avocado in high esteem.
After touring his farm – where he’s also trying his hand at macadamia nuts, MD2 pineapples, and arabica coffee beans – this regular Renaissance man then traveled with us to visit some of the smallholder farmers also planting Hass avocados.
I now understand the basics of avocado grafting (attaching a Hass scion to the raised stem of a formerly local variety of avocado). Manure is the fertilizer of choice – keeping it au natural. And the volcanic soil – black in nature and improved through composting – is ideal for planting.
Growing these avos on the sides of rolling mountain ridges did provoke my inquiry on grapes – apparently there’s too much precipitation during the rainy season of late April / May. That said, I had a prospective winery in mind for most of the day until I finally asked about it.
When I moved to Boston in 2004, I called my mother a few times during my first weeks in New England, with sticker shock. The New England “price premium” on everyday goods – compared to Texas prices for groceries, gasoline, etc. was frustrating – both in that I had to pay more for the same item, but more so that no one around me shared this frustration. That was before I realized that speaking to strangers in public places, commonplace in Texas, is a social faux pas in New England. :)
However, I particularly remember calling her from Shaw’s supermarket to complain about the inflamed price of Hass avocados. I now have a new appreciation for what it takes to get one of these green gems out of Africa and on a plane, train, or automobile to the US and Euro markets.
We headed out south to Rungwe, where he currently farms 80 h.a. His main crop is Hass avocado – and his plan is to grow his own and manage a network of smallholder farmers also growing Hass for export to Europe.
Avocados (and more) for as far as the eye can see in Tukuyu, TZ
Seedlings of future greatness
3 month old plant...it takes 2 years of growing to really get going
It sounds ridiculous until he explains the financial margins – severely in his favor.
It sounds ridiculous until he explains that smallholder farmers can earn more from avocado than possibly on any other crop in the area (tea, coffee).
It sounds ridiculous until you learn how low-maintenance the avocado is to grow.
It sounds ridiculous until you realize he has it all figured out.
Who knew the avocado market offered so much global drama? Apparently the Peruvians and South Africans have much of the export market locked up. Even the Spaniards currently fill a gap when Peru and RSA don’t have harvest – but Tanzania can really make its mark during a window of time where the profits favor both the Captain and the smallholder farmers who sell him their volumes. It’s a win-win.
A local farmer standing next to "green gold"
Global demand for “avos” (this is what the Zimbabwean calls his pet fruit, by the end of the day, so did I) is on the rise. Consumption has nearly tripled in three years in the US alone. I attribute this marked increase – without any research or confirmation – to a two-prong combination:
(1) the growing demand for the Wrights of Texas mild green salsa (avo is a key ingredient, I believe; www.wrightsoftexas.com – now available at Whole Foods across Texas) and
(2) our avo-loving, southern NAFTA neighbors who continue to enter the US at rapid rates and who are confirming the vast culinary differences between Tex-Mex fare and actual Mexican food. Thankfully, both Tex-Mex and Mexican foods hold the avocado in high esteem.
After touring his farm – where he’s also trying his hand at macadamia nuts, MD2 pineapples, and arabica coffee beans – this regular Renaissance man then traveled with us to visit some of the smallholder farmers also planting Hass avocados.
I now understand the basics of avocado grafting (attaching a Hass scion to the raised stem of a formerly local variety of avocado). Manure is the fertilizer of choice – keeping it au natural. And the volcanic soil – black in nature and improved through composting – is ideal for planting.
Growing these avos on the sides of rolling mountain ridges did provoke my inquiry on grapes – apparently there’s too much precipitation during the rainy season of late April / May. That said, I had a prospective winery in mind for most of the day until I finally asked about it.
When I moved to Boston in 2004, I called my mother a few times during my first weeks in New England, with sticker shock. The New England “price premium” on everyday goods – compared to Texas prices for groceries, gasoline, etc. was frustrating – both in that I had to pay more for the same item, but more so that no one around me shared this frustration. That was before I realized that speaking to strangers in public places, commonplace in Texas, is a social faux pas in New England. :)
However, I particularly remember calling her from Shaw’s supermarket to complain about the inflamed price of Hass avocados. I now have a new appreciation for what it takes to get one of these green gems out of Africa and on a plane, train, or automobile to the US and Euro markets.
Mount Livingstone Hotel
It’s not fancy. Nor should it have to be. The name is a cute nod to Mr. Livingstone, which I presume (pun not intended) is due to proximity to Zambia, nothing more. However, it should be noted that thus far, the power goes out for about 45 minutes to an hour twice nightly, with about 2 hours between each outage. That’s fine because that’s part of the deal of living in Africa. The odd thing is the response.
Each time this has happened – and that’s three nights running like clockwork – everyone acts surprised. Alternatively, I see a pattern. I see so much of a pattern that if I were running this place, I would have one of the staff standing next to the generator at 7:10PM each night. It would just make more sense to kick it on faster. I truly believe it takes 45 minutes for someone to receive the order to turn on the generator, to navigate darkness to find it in the area behind the hotel, to check if there’s enough diesel to operate, and to flip the switch.
That said, tonight I was transcribing my notes from farmer interviews into Excel spreadsheets and Powerpoint slides (fun! consulting! hooray!) – and sat in total darkness with about 10 other people in the hotel’s café during both patterned power outages. The lights went out and my laptop screen served as the single luminary. It was sorta odd how conversation halted the entire black-out – the same stillness and hanging anticipation as during the “heads down, thumbs up” part of the 7Up elementary school classroom game. The room then sprung to life again when the power restored.
While odd, I can’t complain. Apparently in Dar, the main power supplier, Tenesco, is replacing two of the electrical power stations on the Peninsula. Instead of switching the supply required from those grids to others nearby or offering some other alternative, there will be frequent, if not constant, outages for the next 5-7 days in Dar. Nice job, Tenesco. That makes a lot of sense. It’s a good thing to be on the road!
Each time this has happened – and that’s three nights running like clockwork – everyone acts surprised. Alternatively, I see a pattern. I see so much of a pattern that if I were running this place, I would have one of the staff standing next to the generator at 7:10PM each night. It would just make more sense to kick it on faster. I truly believe it takes 45 minutes for someone to receive the order to turn on the generator, to navigate darkness to find it in the area behind the hotel, to check if there’s enough diesel to operate, and to flip the switch.
That said, tonight I was transcribing my notes from farmer interviews into Excel spreadsheets and Powerpoint slides (fun! consulting! hooray!) – and sat in total darkness with about 10 other people in the hotel’s café during both patterned power outages. The lights went out and my laptop screen served as the single luminary. It was sorta odd how conversation halted the entire black-out – the same stillness and hanging anticipation as during the “heads down, thumbs up” part of the 7Up elementary school classroom game. The room then sprung to life again when the power restored.
While odd, I can’t complain. Apparently in Dar, the main power supplier, Tenesco, is replacing two of the electrical power stations on the Peninsula. Instead of switching the supply required from those grids to others nearby or offering some other alternative, there will be frequent, if not constant, outages for the next 5-7 days in Dar. Nice job, Tenesco. That makes a lot of sense. It’s a good thing to be on the road!
Roadtrip to the Edges of Tanzania
During the 14-hour marathon road trip to Mbeya, the highlight was slowing to a stop while passing through Mikumi park as a lioness crossed the road! I was not fast enough with the camera, but she was also clearly on the move, appearing from tall, grassy brush on one side before disappearing to the same on the other! I took it as a good sign for this trip.
I couldnt even plan this if I tried. :)
Else, there were no major events of note. Thankfully, no tire blow-outs. No major traffic jams. No tragic traffic accidents on the roadside. One successful drop-off of large pineapples and other fruits to Deo’s (driver) brother. Even two cassette tapes of music to play repeatedly!
Colorful onion pyramids lined the roads on our trek south!
One of the images of my time in Tanzania I will remember most is from Chalinze. Chalinze is a town directly west of Dar – from there, you must choose your own adventure. North sends you towards Arusha and Mt. Kilimanjaro; South directs one to Morogoro, opening access to the southern highlands. Large coach buses stop in Chalinze as it is a major trade cross-roads for passenger on- and off-load, as well as re-fueling.
The main road through Chalinze serves as a gauntlet, each bus that stops is well-received by a throng of teenage boys and young men sprinting with full effort to sell a random selection of items, ranging from practical to the absurd. This vigor displayed towards each bus – each bus offering a new marketing opportunity – highlights entrepreneurialism far less demonstrated elsewhere in the country. While some might counter that their actions nearly infringe upon desperation, I do not think so. These are young men who have not yet left to try their fortune (or misfortune) in Dar and who have not yet chosen to join the other 80% of the nation’s population involved in agriculture. Instead, they are trying to make it on the margin – literally and figuratively – and their energy is admirable to observe. While Kenya is known for its runners, I wish the TZ government would host sprint trials out here – there’s some talent! The potential for profit – a glimmer of capitalism amidst an entrenched legacy of state socialism lingering from the 1970s – demonstrates a slow but emerging current of change towards a more economically thriving country.
After 13 hours in the car, the town of Mbeya just sorta happens. I might not have known we were here, versus another village along the way, except for the Castle Beer road marker, “Mbeya.” Thank you, South African imported alcohol, for your multi-purpose advertising. The striking aspect to this town is the tangible sense of movement.
Mbeya serves as the intersection of the TanZam railway (Tanzania-Zambia), as well as the last major stop on the freeway running north-south-ish across Tanzania. This creates a center of trade and transport – particularly in these days leading up to Nane Nane agricultural festival. Sadly, Mbeya also leads Tanzania with the highest incidence of HIV (18%), as a result of its location along this heavily traveled trade route. However, despite all the advantages and drawbacks from such movement, Mbeya offers some of the most beautiful vistas I have seen yet in Tanzania. The forested mountains crest into valleys full of light yellow maize fields – the scattered square-ish plots almost look European in their lay-out and residents continue to smile genuinely at strangers. Mbeya is known for its tea and coffee plantations – the fields of green plantings contrast distinctively from the multi-colored fabrics of those farmers and field hands picking the leaves and beans for harvest. While Mbeya lies on the border near Malawi and Zambia, it remains uniquely Tanzanian.
I couldnt even plan this if I tried. :)
Else, there were no major events of note. Thankfully, no tire blow-outs. No major traffic jams. No tragic traffic accidents on the roadside. One successful drop-off of large pineapples and other fruits to Deo’s (driver) brother. Even two cassette tapes of music to play repeatedly!
Colorful onion pyramids lined the roads on our trek south!
One of the images of my time in Tanzania I will remember most is from Chalinze. Chalinze is a town directly west of Dar – from there, you must choose your own adventure. North sends you towards Arusha and Mt. Kilimanjaro; South directs one to Morogoro, opening access to the southern highlands. Large coach buses stop in Chalinze as it is a major trade cross-roads for passenger on- and off-load, as well as re-fueling.
The main road through Chalinze serves as a gauntlet, each bus that stops is well-received by a throng of teenage boys and young men sprinting with full effort to sell a random selection of items, ranging from practical to the absurd. This vigor displayed towards each bus – each bus offering a new marketing opportunity – highlights entrepreneurialism far less demonstrated elsewhere in the country. While some might counter that their actions nearly infringe upon desperation, I do not think so. These are young men who have not yet left to try their fortune (or misfortune) in Dar and who have not yet chosen to join the other 80% of the nation’s population involved in agriculture. Instead, they are trying to make it on the margin – literally and figuratively – and their energy is admirable to observe. While Kenya is known for its runners, I wish the TZ government would host sprint trials out here – there’s some talent! The potential for profit – a glimmer of capitalism amidst an entrenched legacy of state socialism lingering from the 1970s – demonstrates a slow but emerging current of change towards a more economically thriving country.
After 13 hours in the car, the town of Mbeya just sorta happens. I might not have known we were here, versus another village along the way, except for the Castle Beer road marker, “Mbeya.” Thank you, South African imported alcohol, for your multi-purpose advertising. The striking aspect to this town is the tangible sense of movement.
Mbeya serves as the intersection of the TanZam railway (Tanzania-Zambia), as well as the last major stop on the freeway running north-south-ish across Tanzania. This creates a center of trade and transport – particularly in these days leading up to Nane Nane agricultural festival. Sadly, Mbeya also leads Tanzania with the highest incidence of HIV (18%), as a result of its location along this heavily traveled trade route. However, despite all the advantages and drawbacks from such movement, Mbeya offers some of the most beautiful vistas I have seen yet in Tanzania. The forested mountains crest into valleys full of light yellow maize fields – the scattered square-ish plots almost look European in their lay-out and residents continue to smile genuinely at strangers. Mbeya is known for its tea and coffee plantations – the fields of green plantings contrast distinctively from the multi-colored fabrics of those farmers and field hands picking the leaves and beans for harvest. While Mbeya lies on the border near Malawi and Zambia, it remains uniquely Tanzanian.
Monday, August 3, 2009
A Swansong Journey
Back to the road! I will depart tomorrow morning at 6AM for a 14-hour drive to reach my first destination of this trek starting out beyond Mbeya, a small city in the southern highlands region of Tanzania. I will be gone for about two weeks to visit new places and return to several that I traveled to previously on my initial fact-finding mission. With the plan of heading far out and working our way back, Deo and I will return to the road; I hope he has acquired at least one or even two new cassette tapes since our last roadtrip.
The goal of this Tour de Tanzania is to get down in the details on avocado, tomato, and pineapples. The overarching question looms of whether or not these crops are sustainably competitive – it is our job to steer farmers towards or away increased investment and risk on their part to, let’s say, double down on tomato plantings.
A highlight to this timing is the overlap with “Nane Nane” (literally “eight eight” or August 8th; also, coincidentally, Carleen Raymond’s 28th birthday and I hope it’s a happy one). Nane Nane is a national farmer festival – hooray farmers! The celebration is based in Morogoro region always, but another region is highlighted each year drawing particular government officials and national attention. This year is Mbeya’s time to shine! As a result, I will remain in Mbeya through the weekend, where I plan to be “that mzungu” who approaches these farmers and dealers at the festival to learn more about what they do and how they transport foods and veggies across Tanzania. That should be both helpful and amusing on many levels.
I will then return to the tomato heartland of Iringa region to learn more from processors to plantings to the challenges farmers face with such an abundance of one crop for their livelihood.
Rounding out the Tour de Tanz is Morogoro, where I will return to the land of pineapples to dive into greater detail on the Sweet Cayenne variety.
I hope to return to Dar on Saturday in time for the Dar Goat Races (see earlier posting below; how can it not be amazing) and then it is time to get summarizing, concluding, and recommending!
Even though my time with TechnoServe will come to an end, it is thankfully not yet time to leave. My parents, Scott and Nanners Laidlaw, arrive to Dar at 23:00 on June 20th where we will depart for the northern safari circuit and then some time on Zanzibar. This summer continues to fly by quickly – though I suspect I will have some quiet, slow nights in the field reading and working on data analysis in the two weeks ahead.
Back to Bongoyo
Last weekend was the start to many final moments of my time here in Tanzania – well, for this visit, at least. A quartet of ladies (Caris, Kelly, Sara and I) boarded the ferry out to the island (yes, Dad, there were life jackets) of paradise: Bongoyo.
My first trip was during my first weekend, so it seemed fitting to return towards the end of my adventures here. While in May it was a smaller, quieter crowd, you can tell that the northern-hemisphere-summer-tourism has arrived to Dar. More crying babies, stronger European accents, and general “whiteness” accompanied us to the beach this time around. As usual, the water was gorgeous and clear.
Amazing, great day at the beach!
The fresh grilled fish is another highlight to the Bongoyo food options, as it was likely caught on the backside of the island and grilled near the tourist beach area. I’m not sure it gets fresher than this, even though it’s a pretty skinny fish!
The grill really showed no mercy on this one.
We returned home for a delicious dinner where I contributed by drinking / pouring wine and setting the table while Kelly and Sara dominated the kitchen with grilled eggplant, fresh cabbage salad, cucumber / goat cheese combo, and delicious bread with cheese. Caris made the incredible Betty Crocker cake. You could say we all played to our strengths. :)
Pretty classy at our house-sitting venue - yes, we were even a little impressed ourselves :)
More than anything, I’ve been here long enough to notice changes like the types of tourists -- those en route to safari versus those long-term visitors, the slight change in mix of seasons for some vegetables, and how it is cooler at night – since we are at the height of winter…and it’s in the 70s at night.
My first trip was during my first weekend, so it seemed fitting to return towards the end of my adventures here. While in May it was a smaller, quieter crowd, you can tell that the northern-hemisphere-summer-tourism has arrived to Dar. More crying babies, stronger European accents, and general “whiteness” accompanied us to the beach this time around. As usual, the water was gorgeous and clear.
Amazing, great day at the beach!
The fresh grilled fish is another highlight to the Bongoyo food options, as it was likely caught on the backside of the island and grilled near the tourist beach area. I’m not sure it gets fresher than this, even though it’s a pretty skinny fish!
The grill really showed no mercy on this one.
We returned home for a delicious dinner where I contributed by drinking / pouring wine and setting the table while Kelly and Sara dominated the kitchen with grilled eggplant, fresh cabbage salad, cucumber / goat cheese combo, and delicious bread with cheese. Caris made the incredible Betty Crocker cake. You could say we all played to our strengths. :)
Pretty classy at our house-sitting venue - yes, we were even a little impressed ourselves :)
More than anything, I’ve been here long enough to notice changes like the types of tourists -- those en route to safari versus those long-term visitors, the slight change in mix of seasons for some vegetables, and how it is cooler at night – since we are at the height of winter…and it’s in the 70s at night.
Office Musings
It’s only natural when you place a bunch of consultants in a room, they try to fix, well, everything. Even in Africa.
Restaurants here are few and largely inefficient. Magic math occurs with the bill often, as the initial order that was hand-written seems to disappear when it comes time to pay. Occasionally we are overcharged – and we have to correct the bill to reflect the pricing stated on the menu. However, sometimes, restaurants under-charge and on more than one occasion we correct them in the moral right. When either of these over or under charging incidents occurs, a substantial conversation of efficiency opportunities or money management solutions erupts from our group of traveling nerds. That said, it would take a little effort mostly in implementing technology to make a big difference here – a statement perhaps for all of Africa – but it could start easiest at restaurants.
Paul, another consultant, observed how close the sisal plant is genetically to the agave plant. To be clear, there’s currently no agave in Tanzania right now. The only alcohols are beers (Kili and Ndouvu as the leading favorites) and, of course, Kanyagi cheap gin. He’s only half-kidding when he says he wants TechnoServe to explore launching a “Tanzania Tequila” industry. He says it could re-energize the northeast corner of the country.
I, on the other hand, was offering to start the first TechnServe office in Afghanistan. A topic often in the news is what to do with the poppy trade in Afghanistan. While there are proposed theories to pay farmers NOT to plant (bad idea) or to switch to other cash-generating crops, a group discussion pinpointed that farmers should not switch production, they should switch buyers (ie, no more drug lords). We had a 20-minute discussion (in the horticulture war room, no less) on the potential for Poppies for Peace, a for-profit social enterprise to be launched in the Swat Valley. It would be a muffin manufacturer – essentially taking some of the land with poppies and plant wheat and maize (baking inputs), then use the poppies already there. Al, Caris and I explored the space of rational and irrational ideas to determine what it would take to make this happen. Muffin Tops Against Terrorism was Al’s winning suggestion for naming rites. Satirical kidding aside, there is a huge opportunity for agri-business in these parts of the world that need an economic development vehicle to get out of their current situation.
Caris might remain in Dar to launch the first cake company. We had, by and large, given up on finding good baked goods in Dar. (Exception: Melting lava cake at Zuane) However, at a girls dinner last weekend, enough was enough – a group of four purchased a box of Betty Crocker Devil’s Food Cake mix. This box of cake mix would cost about $3 in the US. The box itself was marked as 2 pounds – almost $5 if in merry England. However, in Dar? We surrendered $8. Yes, $8 for a box of cake mix. And, I’d do it again. After the successful baking of this cake, we discussed the margins of selling it by the slice at Epi D’Or, the closest thing on the Peninsula to a bakery/coffee shop. Margins were ostensibly at 80% --- so, Cakes by Caris was created.
Restaurants here are few and largely inefficient. Magic math occurs with the bill often, as the initial order that was hand-written seems to disappear when it comes time to pay. Occasionally we are overcharged – and we have to correct the bill to reflect the pricing stated on the menu. However, sometimes, restaurants under-charge and on more than one occasion we correct them in the moral right. When either of these over or under charging incidents occurs, a substantial conversation of efficiency opportunities or money management solutions erupts from our group of traveling nerds. That said, it would take a little effort mostly in implementing technology to make a big difference here – a statement perhaps for all of Africa – but it could start easiest at restaurants.
Paul, another consultant, observed how close the sisal plant is genetically to the agave plant. To be clear, there’s currently no agave in Tanzania right now. The only alcohols are beers (Kili and Ndouvu as the leading favorites) and, of course, Kanyagi cheap gin. He’s only half-kidding when he says he wants TechnoServe to explore launching a “Tanzania Tequila” industry. He says it could re-energize the northeast corner of the country.
I, on the other hand, was offering to start the first TechnServe office in Afghanistan. A topic often in the news is what to do with the poppy trade in Afghanistan. While there are proposed theories to pay farmers NOT to plant (bad idea) or to switch to other cash-generating crops, a group discussion pinpointed that farmers should not switch production, they should switch buyers (ie, no more drug lords). We had a 20-minute discussion (in the horticulture war room, no less) on the potential for Poppies for Peace, a for-profit social enterprise to be launched in the Swat Valley. It would be a muffin manufacturer – essentially taking some of the land with poppies and plant wheat and maize (baking inputs), then use the poppies already there. Al, Caris and I explored the space of rational and irrational ideas to determine what it would take to make this happen. Muffin Tops Against Terrorism was Al’s winning suggestion for naming rites. Satirical kidding aside, there is a huge opportunity for agri-business in these parts of the world that need an economic development vehicle to get out of their current situation.
Caris might remain in Dar to launch the first cake company. We had, by and large, given up on finding good baked goods in Dar. (Exception: Melting lava cake at Zuane) However, at a girls dinner last weekend, enough was enough – a group of four purchased a box of Betty Crocker Devil’s Food Cake mix. This box of cake mix would cost about $3 in the US. The box itself was marked as 2 pounds – almost $5 if in merry England. However, in Dar? We surrendered $8. Yes, $8 for a box of cake mix. And, I’d do it again. After the successful baking of this cake, we discussed the margins of selling it by the slice at Epi D’Or, the closest thing on the Peninsula to a bakery/coffee shop. Margins were ostensibly at 80% --- so, Cakes by Caris was created.
Mark Your Calendar: Aug 15th Dar Goat Races
Apparently an annual tradition and local fundraiser, the Dar Goat Races have been on our social calendars here for some time.
Serving as Dar's version of the Kentucky Derby, our crew of summer consultants are making plans to attend this hilarious event. It's for a good cause, and who would not pay a few dollars for charity to support goat racing?
Serving as Dar's version of the Kentucky Derby, our crew of summer consultants are making plans to attend this hilarious event. It's for a good cause, and who would not pay a few dollars for charity to support goat racing?
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